OLIVE

Olea europaea L.
Oleaceae

   Common Name: Olive.

   Related Species: Wild Olive (Olea africana), Oleaster                             (O. europaeavar. oleaster).

Distant Affinity: American Olive (Osmanthus americana), Fragrant Olive (O. fragrans).

Container Gardening-Growing an Olive Tree by GardenGirl72

Origin: The olive is native to the Mediterranean region, tropical and central Asia and various parts of Africa. The olive has a history almost as long as that of Western civilization, its development being one of civilized man's first accomplishments. At a site in Spain, carbon-dating has shown olive seed found there to be eight thousand years old. O. europaea may have been cultivated independently in two places, Crete and Syria. Archeological evidence suggest that olives were being grown in Crete as long ago as 2,500 B.C. From Crete and Syria olives spread to Greece, Rome and other parts of the Mediterranean area. Olives are also grown commercially in California, Australia and South Africa. There is some disagreement over when the trees first appeared in California. Some say they were introduced in 1769 when seeds brought from Mexico were planted. Others site the date 1785 when trees were brought in to make olive oil.

Adaptation: The olive requires a long, hot growing season to properly ripen the fruit, no late spring frosts to kill the blossoms and sufficient winter chill to insure fruit set. Home grown olives generally fruit satisfactorily in the warmer coastal valleys of California. Virtually all U.S. commercial olive production is concentrated in California's Central Valley, with a small pocket of olive acreage outside Phoenix. The tree may be grown as an ornamental where winter temperatures do not drop below 12° F. Green fruit is damaged at about 28°, but ripe fruit will withstand somewhat lower temperatures. Hot, dry winds may be harmful during the period when the flowers are open and the young fruits are setting. The trees survive and fruit well even with considerable neglect. Olives can also be grown in a large container, and has even appeared in shows as a bonsai.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habits: The olive is an evergreen tree growing to 50 ft. in height with a spread of about 30 ft. The tree can be kept to about 20 ft. with regular pruning. The graceful, billowing appearance of the olive tree can be rather attractive. In an all-green garden its grayish foliage serves as an interesting accent. The attractive, gnarled branching pattern is also quite distinctive. Olives are long-lived with a life expectancy of 500 years. The trees are also tenacious, easily sprouting back even when chopped to the ground.
Foliage: The olive's feather-shaped leaves grow opposite one another. Their skin is rich in tannin, giving the mature leaf its gray-green appearance. The leaves are replaced every two or three years, leaf-fall usually occurring at the same time new growth appears in the spring.

Flowers: The small, fragrant, cream-colored olive flowers are largely hidden by the evergreen leaves and grow on a long stem arising from the leaf axils. The olive produces two kinds of flowers: a perfect flower containing both male and female parts, and a staminate flower with stamens only. The flowers are largely wind pollinated with most olive varieties being self-pollinating, although fruit set is usually improved by cross pollination with other varieties. There are self-incompatible varieties that do not set fruit without other varieties nearby, and there are varieties that are incompatible with certain others. Incompatibility can also occur for environmental reasons such as high temperatures.

Fruit: The olive fruit is a green drupe, becoming generally blackish-purple when fully ripe. A few varieties are green when ripe and some turn a shade of copper brown. The cultivars vary considerably in size, shape, oil-content and flavor. The shapes range from almost round to oval or elongated with pointed ends. Raw olives contain an alkaloid that makes them bitter and unpalatable. A few varieties are sweet enough to be eaten after sun drying. Thinning the crop will give larger fruit size. This should be done as soon as possible after fruit set. Thin until remaining fruit average about 2 or 3 per foot of twig. The trees reach bearing age in about 4 years.

CULTURE

Location: Plant olive trees in full sun and away from sidewalks to avoid stains from fallen ripe fruit. Non-fruiting trees are available which can be planted in areas where fruit may be a problem. Strong winds will "sculpt" the trees, but otherwise they are quite wind-tolerant.
Soils: Olives will grow well on almost any well-drained soil up to pH 8.5 and are tolerant of mild saline conditions.

Irrigation: Irrigation is a necessity in California with its dry summers. A monthly deep watering of home grown trees is normally adequate. Because of its small leaves, with their protective cuticle and slow transpiration, the olive tree survives even extended dry periods.

Fertilization: Fertilizing olive trees with additional supplies of nitrogen has proved beneficial. In California farmers systematically apply fertilizers well ahead of the time flowers develop so the trees can absorb the nitrogen before fruit set. Many growers in Mediterranean countries apply organic fertilizers every other year.

Pruning: Proper pruning is important for the olive. Pruning both regulates production and shapes the tree for easier harvest. The trees can withstand radical pruning, so it is relatively easy to keep them at a desired height. The problem of alternate bearing can also be avoided with careful pruning every year. It should be kept in mind that the olive never bears fruit in the same place twice, and usually bears on the previous year's growth. For a single trunk, prune suckers and any branches growing below the point where branching is desired. For the gnarled effect of several trunks, stake out basal suckers and lower branches at the desired angle. Prune flowering branches in early summer to prevent olives from forming. Olive trees can also be pruned to espaliers.

Propagation: None of the cultivated varieties can be propagated by seed. Seed propagated trees revert to the original small-fruited wild variety. The seedlings can, of course, be grafted or chip budded with material from desired cultivars. The variety of an olive tree can also be changed by bark grafting or top working. Another method of propagation is transplanting suckers that grow at the base of mature trees. However, these would have to be grafted if the suckers grew from the seedling rootstock.

A commonly practiced method is propagation from cuttings. Twelve to fourteen inch long, one inch wide cuttings from the two year old wood of a mature tree are treated with a rooting hormone, planted in a light rooting medium and kept moist. Trees grown from such cuttings can be further grafted with wood from another cultivar. Cutting grown trees bear fruit in about four years.

Pests and diseases: The olive tree is affected by some pests and diseases, although it has fewer problems than most fruit trees. Around the Mediterranean the major pests are medfly and the olive fruit fly, Dacus oleae. In California, verticillium wilt is a serious fungal disease. There is no effective treatment other than avoiding planting on infested soils and removing damaged trees and branches. A bacterial disease known as olive knot is spread by pruning with infected tools during rainy months. Because the olive has fewer natural enemies than other crops, and because the oil in olives retains the odor of chemical treatments, the olive is one of the least sprayed crops.

Harvest: Olive fruits that are to be processed as green olives are picked while they are still green but have reached full size. They can also be picked for processing at any later stage up through full ripeness. Ripe olives bruise easily and should be handled with care. Mold is also a problem for the fruit between picking and curing. There are several classical ways of curing olives. A common method is the lye-cure process in which green or near-ripe olives are soaked in a series of lye solutions for a period of time to remove the bitter principle and then transferred to water and finally a mild saline solution. Other processing methods include water curing, salt curing and Greek-style curing. Explicit directions for various curing and marinating methods can be found in several publications including Maggie Blyth Klein's book, Feast of the Olives, and the University of California Agricultural Sciences Publications Leaflet 21131. Both green-cured and ripe-cured olives are popular as a relish or snack. For California canned commercial olives, black olives are identical to green olives. The black color is obtained by exposure to air after lye extraction and has nothing to do with ripeness. Home production of olive oil is not recommended. The equipment required and the sheer mass of fruit needed are beyond most households.

Commercial Potential: Commercial olive production is a multimillion dollar business in California. In the Mediterranean region olives and olive oil are common ingredients of everyday foods. Raw olives are sometimes sold in speciality produce stores, and home growers in California often sell their excess crop to others interested in home curing. There is also a growing interest in specialty olive oils, often produced commercially from small groves of olive trees.

CULTIVARS

Over the centuries mankind has produced and propagated a myriad of olive varieties. Today several dozen varieties are grown commercially around the world. Five commercially important varieties are grown in California: Manzanillo, Sevillano, Mission, Ascolano and Barouni, listed in descending order of crop size. Some representative olive cultivars including the commercial California varieties are listed below.
Ascolano
Very large, ellipsoidal fruit. Skin color very light even when ripe, pit very small. Fruit is tender and must be handled carefully. Contains very little bitterness and requires only moderate lye treatment. Excellent for pickles, but needs proper aeration during pickling to develop "ripe" color. Tree a heavy bearer, widely adapted.
Barouni
Large fruit, almost as large as Sevillano. Trees spreading and easy to harvest. Withstands extremely high temperatures. The variety usually shipped to the East Coast for making home-cured olives. Originally from Tunisia.
Gordal
Medium to large, plump fruit, ripening early. Resembles Sevillano. A popular pickling olive and principal cultivar in Spain, producer of most of the world's table olives.
Manzanillo
Large, rounded-oval fruit. Skin brilliant purple, changing to deep blue-black when mature. Resists bruising. Ripens early, several weeks earlier than Mission. The pulp parts readily with its bitterness and is exceedingly rich when pickled. Excellent for oil and pickles. Tree spreading, vigorous, a prolific bearer.
Mission
Medium-sized, oval fruit. Skin deep purple changing to jet-black when ripe. Flesh very bitter but firm, freestone. Ripens rather late. Good for pickling and oil, specially ripe pickles. Most widely used for cold-pressed olive oil in California. Tree vigorous, heavy-bearing. More cold resistant than other cultivars. Grown at the old missions in California.
Picholine
Small, elongated fruit. Skin light green, changing to wine red, then red-black when ripe. Pulp fleshy, firm-textured. Tree vigorous, medium-sized, bears heavy crops regularly. Cured olives have a delicate, subtle, lightly salty, nut-like flavor. Usually salt-brine cured. Popular in gourmet and specialty markets.
Rubra
Medium-small, ovate fruit. Skin jet-black when ripe. Ripens 3 to 4 weeks earlier than Mission. Best suited for oil, but is also used for pickling. Tree large, precocious, often producing fruit the second year. An exceptionally prolific bearer. Very hardy and reliable even in dry situations. Originated in France.
Sevillano
Very large fruit, bluish-black when ripe. The largest California commercial variety. Stone large, clinging. Ripens early. Low oil content, only useful in pickling. Used for making Sicilian style salt brine cured olives, also the leading canning cultivar. Tree a strong grower and regular bearer. Require deep, rich, well drained soil. Will not stand much cold.

How to Grow Lemon Grass

Lemon grass is a popular herb in Asian cuisine and it's very easy to grow. You can use it fresh or dry it and make lemon grass tea. There are many uses for this fresh and lemony herb.

Instructions

things you'll need:
Lemon grass stalks
Pot
Potting soil
Jar of water

1)Find a supply of lemon grass. You can usually find fresh lemon grass at your local grocery story in the produce section or a local Asian market.

2)Select the best stock. Look for bundles of fresh lemon grass with bulbs and roots still attached if possible. Avoid wilted or dry product.

3)Trim the lemon grass. When you get home, trim the tops off of the bundles and any dry leaves.

4)Place it in water. Place the bundle in a jar of water and place in a sunny window until you have an inch or two of roots.

5)Transplant the lemon grass. Transplant your lemon grass into a pot with soil. Place it in warm place with lots of sun. Keep the pot moist but do not over water.

6)Watch the temperatures. If you live in a cold climate, you will need to bring your lemon grass in during the winter. Planting your lemon grass outside near a water source is a good way to get large plants.

How to Make Liquid Fertilizer

If you are tired of the hassles of carrying around bags of commercial fertilizer and never know for sure if you are using too much, then creating your own liquid fertilizer is for you. No more guessing how much to use or worrying about burning tender roots. This liquid fertilizer is easy to apply, doesn't require the labor of mixing it into the soil, and can be applied anywhere at any time even to those hard to reach plants you can't quite get to with commercial fertilizers.

Liquid Lawn Fertilizer And Weed Control in Winnipeg by pegfrontpage

things you'll need:
Blender
Household Ammonia
Epsom Salt
Vegetable Scraps
Large bucket with lid

Instructions
1)Save all cooked or raw vegetable scraps from meal preparation. This includes potato peelings, apple peelings, pea pods, or any other parts you would ordinarily discard. Even the water used to cook vegetables in is a good source of nutrients for your garden.

2)Place the scraps in an ordinary household blender and emulsify. If scraps are dry, add enough water to assist the blender in creating a smooth puree.

3)Pour the vegetable scrap puree into a large plastic bucket. Add 1 capful of ammonia and 1/2 teaspoon of Epsom Salt per quart of puree and mix thoroughly with a large wooden spoon.

4)Seal the container and let set at room temperature overnight or until you have enough compost to create liquid fertilizer for your garden. Each quart of mulched veggies will make one gallon of liquid fertilizer.

5)Prepare liquid fertilizer for the garden. Simply mix one quart of pureed vegetables to one gallon of warm water. Shake to mix well.

6)Pour liquid fertilizer directly on the soil around plants in the garden.

Effect of music on plants

Ben, a 19-year old teenager was very fond of playing violin and was pretty good at it as well. Interestingly, he had a few houseplants in his room balcony (where he used to play his violin) and he used to water them regularly. After a while he observed that those plants had grown better than the other plants in the house, even though the regular watering was same for all. He wondered about it and came up with a hypothesis, that it might actually be the violin music.

Well, his inference may not be incorrect, as there have been experiments which compel us to believe that music does affect plant growth. It is because plants are living organisms. They do have feelings and can sense. Just like the 'touch me not' which recoils and folds within itself at a slight touch.

Sir Jagdish Chandra Bose, an Indian scientist probably had an inkling that the sound of music does wonders for plant growth. He performed some experiments which show how music affects plant growth. Scientists from all over the world have researched on the question 'how does music affect plants?'.

So, does music affect plant growth? Well, yes, it could be said that music does affect plant growth. It is just like what music therapy is for human beings. Check out why most of us believe so.

Impact of Music on Plants
Various experiments are a major evidence of the fact that music, does in fact affect plant growth. Dorothy Retallack published a small book on this, in 1973, which was based on her experiments of the music effects on plants, in a Colorado College, in Denver. She found out that, out of the plants in three different chambers, with different conditions, those exposed to soothing music grew better than the others. In one case, the plants had bent towards the music playing device! These plants were lush green with healthy stems.

However, if there is a constant monotone that is being played, then it does not significantly affect plant growth. But if it is mild, classical music, definite change of rate can be observed, in the growth of plants. It is a lengthy process, though. How music affects plant growth, cannot be observed within days of the plant being exposed to music. It takes weeks to identify the effects of music on plants.

Classical Music and Plant Growth 
Classical music, for that matter has had a prominent effect on plant growth. The Ragas (a formation with a group of notations) in Indian classical music, are believed to have worked wonders for plant growth. In addition to that, the occident has also been a witness to experiments on how does music affect plants. The vibrations of the music created are responsible for plant growth.

But everything said and done, even if music is believed to affect plant growth, it is somewhat controversial. The naysayers hold that there are no sensory devices in plants, like the ears or the brain. Music is all about vibrations, but then, they may not be so powerful that they can initiate an improved growth in plants.

So, does music affect plant growth? This is still a question mark in the fraternity of scientists. But hey, what is the problem in believing that yes, music does affect plants? Who knows our belief will give such an incredible power to the music we play, that it will compel the plants to flourish. How beautiful it would be! Even when the sun leaves them, melodies will always be there to cheer our green friends up!

Plant Neurobiology

Plant Neurobiology describes a newly named, but also old and fascinating field in plant biology addressing the physiological basis of adaptive behavior in plants. Perhaps this field could be called "Sensory Biology in Plants" or something similar. However, these names don't quite cover topics like plant cytology and anatomy, adaptive plant behavior, signaling and communication in symbiosis and pathogenesis, or newly emerging topics like for instance plant immunity, plant memory and learning, plant-plant communication, as well as plant intelligence.

Our choice of the term Plant Neurobiology is described in Brenner et al. (2006) where we note some obvious analogies between classical neurobiology and some aspects of the physiology of plants. For example, plants have long been known to respond sensitively to environmental stimuli by movement and changes in morphology, to be electrically excitable, to display rapid electrical responses (action potentials) to environmental stimuli, to synthesize numerous organic molecules that act as neurochemicals in other organisms, and to use hormonal signaling pathways to coordinate development, morphology and thus, accomplish behavioral responses to environmental, communicative, and ecological contexts.

For a better understanding of the world around us, it is important that we develop and share the growing understanding of plants as dynamic and highly sensitive organisms. No longer can plants be viewed and portrayed as passive entities merely subject to environmental forces, as 'automata'-like organisms based only on reflexes and optimised solely for accumulation of photosynthate. With a fuller understanding of signaling and communication within and among plants, it becomes clear that these sensitive biological organisms actively and competitively forage for limited resources, both above and below ground. In addition, plants accurately compute their circumstances, use sophisticated cost benefit analysis, and they take tightly controlled actions to mitigate and control diverse environmental stressors. Plants also emerge as capable of discriminating positive and negative experiences, and 'learning' from their past experiences. Plants use this cognitively acquired information to update their behavior in order to survive present and future challenges of their environment. Moreover, plants are also capable of refined recognition of self and non-self, and are territorial in behavior.

This Plant Neurobiological view sees plants as information-processing organisms with complex communications of various types occurring throughout the individual plant. What we need to find out is how their information is gathered and processed, what routes do data take (if not via 'nerves' sensu strictu), and how are adaptive responses integrated and coordinated, how are these events 'remembered' in order to allow realistic predictions of future using past experiences.

Last but not least, plants are as sophisticated in behavior as animals but this potential has been masked effectively because it operates on time scales many orders of magnitude slower than in animals. At the very least, this quality should make it easier for experimental plant scientists to uncover the mysteries of their neurobiological function and behavioral responses.

healing power of plants

Aromatherapy and herbs have re-focused attention on the healing potential of plants and flowers. In fact, their healing benefits were first discovered and propagated thousands of years ago in ancient civilizations. They have been available and in use in different parts of the world throughout the centuries, long before the advent of modern medicine.

Lavender
Ancient Roman records tell of soldiers taking lavender with them on military campaigns to clean and dress wounds. The healing properties of lavender are in the flowers, from which lavender oil is extracted as an herbal remedy. Lavender oil contains an antiseptic called linalool, which soothes burns and acne. Lavender has a long history as an antidote to many other ills, from anxiety to insomnia to depression. An ingredient in lavender called ketones is known to promote sleep and reduce inflammation. It is said that lavender ingredients in a shampoo solution can help to curb dandruff.

Chrysanthemum Tea
Chrysanthemum tea has been a Chinese medicinal remedy for centuries. It is said to detoxify the system, and relax the body to encourage a peaceful night's sleep. According to Chinese herbalists, the body can become "overheated" and chrysanthemum tea is an antidote. It is also said to prevent sore throats. A regular regimen of chrysanthemum tea is often prescribed to ease high blood pressure and high cholesterol, to maintain good vision, and to clear sinus congestion.

Aloe Vera
Egyptian documents written around 1550 B.C., describe 12 formulas for mixing aloe vera with other ingredients to treat external and internal maladies. The aloe vera plant has a reputation as a "miracle" aid for cuts and burns. It is easy to grow and maintain in a windowsill pot, or outdoors. The gel from an aloe vera leaf acts like an antibiotic and causes the cut or the burn to heal speedily.Aloe gel can also be applied to soothe sunburn, blisters, swelling and insect bites.

Chamomile
In Ancient Egypt, the flowers and leaves of the chamomile plant were dedicated to the sun in recognition of their medicinal powers. Chamomile tea is said to be an effective deterrent to colds, digestive problems and menstrual cramps. Recent research studies also indicate its effectiveness in lowering blood sugar levels, and the possibility that chamomile could be developed as part of a drug regimen to counter diabetes.

Ginkgo Biloba
The ginkgo biloba tree dates back hundreds of millions of years, and at one point it was thought to have died out, until it was discovered growing in Japan and China. There is early mention of the merits of its leaves in Chinese documents written around the third century. Ginkgo biloba is said to be a powerful antioxidant. It is said to be of special benefit to people suffering from Alzheimer's Disease and macular degeneration, because of its ability to enhance the flow of blood to the brain and to the eyes. It is also used to ease asthma attacks.

plants phsycology

PLANTS PHSYCOLOGY


Plants, like animals and humans, have DNA made up of the double helix structure. Even more surprising, plants have awareness, memory, communication and emotions.

Over the past 100 or so years, many experiments have been conducted on plants. Even Charles Darwin did experiments with plants, causing him to decide that plants have consciousness.

Sir Jagadis Chundra Bose, a famous Bengali scientist conducted many experiments with plants. One experiment involved electrical stimulation. In reaction to this stimulation, the plant "wrote" its signature on a piece of smoke-covered glass. During another experiment he found that the cortex tissue in a plant contains tiny heart like cells that pump the sap up the tree from the roots to the tips of the highest branches.

Further plant experiments were conducted in the 1950's and 1960's regarding stimulation of plants. Electrical fields, magnetic fields, music and other sound waves were all used to determine their affects on plants. It was found that plants like jazz and classical music, grow more quickly, produce more blossoms, seed pods, fruit and mature more quickly when listening to this type of music. However, plants do not like rock and roll. When they are subjected to it, they lean away from the source of the music. If it continues for long periods of time, they do poorly, eventually withering and frequently dying.

Canadian Eugene Canby recorded a 66 percent increase in the yield of a wheat field from playing the music of Bach to the wheat plants.

T.C. Singh, a botany professor in India experimented with harmonic sounds. He found that when plants were subjected to certain harmonic sounds, they would speed up growth and increase the number of flowers, fruits and seed yields.

Another experiment involved wiring a fruit tree with DC electrical current that caused it to drop its ripe fruit but retain its green fruit. Further investigation of this phenomenon may uncover a new harvesting method for orchard growers.

George De La Ward determined that children of a female plant did much better when their mother was alive, even if she was hundreds of miles away. As soon as the mother plant died, all its offspring did poorly.

Another experiment proved that when Irises had magnetite added to their soil, they doubled the number of flowers on each stalk.

Cleve Backster, a polygraph examiner, connected a polygraph machine (a lie detector) to plants and measured their reactions. His experiments revealed that plants can communicate with one another and that they have an awareness of what is going on around them. He proved that plants can tell the difference between a real threat and a pretend threat.

Growing Coriander (Cilantro)

Coriander is a highly fragrant annual herb and will grow to up to 2 feet in height. Coriander seeds are known as Coriander and its leaves are often known as Cilantro. Coriander is sometimes known as Chinese Parsley. Coriander is grown for both its seeds and leaves and both are used for culinary purposes. The leaves can be used raw in salads, sandwiches and salsas or in cooked items such as Bread or Curry.


How To Grow Coriander From Seed by VideojugLifestyleandHome

Preparation

Coriander is sensitive to transplanting and the shock can cause boliting. Because of this it is advisable to sow coriander seeds where you want them to remain. If growing outside then weed, dig over and rake the soil before planting.

Sowing

If sowing outdoors then wait till May to ensure warm soil temperatures which will promote more successful germination. Sow seeds in drills around 1cm deep and then cover with soil / compost. Space rows around 35cm apart. Sow seeds around 4cm apart.

Seeds will take a few days either side of 2 weeks to germinate. Once the seedlings are about 4-5cm high you can thin them down to about 20cm apart.

If growing in containers then make sure the container is at least 15cm deep so that the tap root can develop.

Coriander should be sown every few weeks to ensure a continuous crop through the growing season

Position

Like most herbs, Coriander likes a lot of light so if growing indoors make sure your Coriander is positioned on a south facing windowsill. A minimum of 4 hours sunshine a day is recommended.

Coriander will also do better in warm spots (it originated from the Mediterenean or Asia).

Soil type

The soil should be well drained and have good aeration. If planting in containers ensure that sufficient drainage aiding materials such as broken pots and/or coarse gravel are in the base of the container.

Tending

A liquid fertiliser can be applied to the soil every few weeks to promote growth.

A shock to the plants system such as lack of water a significant drop in temperature will cause Coriander to bolt (start producing seed). This process of bolting is a natural 'survival' process. If growing outside fluctuations in temperature can be reduced by growing under glass - in the greenhouse, cloche or poly tunnel.

Do not overwater Coriander as it does not like its roots to stand in water.

Harvesting

You can start to harvest the leaves after the plant has reached 10cm in height.

Harvest mature leaves to encourage further growth.

MINT MANYA

GROWING MINT

Mint is a fantastic herb to grow in the garden. It is easy to grow and emits a wonderful scent when you brush past it. It can be used in a variety of dishes including roast lamb and salads and goes well with freshly podded peas.

Mint is a hardy perennial and a voracious grower. It will do well in both sunny and shady parts of the garden. It will also thrive in pots; in fact if you have a small garden it is recommended that you grow mint in a pot to prevent it from spreading and taking over the other herbs.

How To Grow Your Own Mint by VideojugLifestyleandHome

Varieties of Mint:
There are three main varieties of mint that people grow in their gardens:

• Pennyroyal mint – the most common type of mint.
• Peppermint – with a distinct cool peppermint flavour.
• Spearmint – traditionally used in mint sauces.

How to Grow Mint

Mint can be grown easily from seed, or young plants sold at garden centres. Mint is tolerant of almost all conditions, but it prefers a well-drained, fertile soil. However, mint enjoys a fair amount of moisture, so it will do better in a moderately shady position, where the soil won’t dry out as quickly as it would in a very sunny area.

Mint can also be propagated from its roots, or rhizomes. Simply take a piece of root and pot it up in a small container, keeping it well watered. Leaves should begin to sprout within a few weeks and the small plant can then be transplanted into the garden the following spring. As mint is such a strong grower it is advisable to grow it in a container to prevent its roots from spreading and potentially killing other plants. You can sink the container into the soil so it appears that the plant is part of the herb bed, however its roots will be contained so the plant will never be able to grow beyond the confines of the pot.

Caring for Mint Mint requires little attention and will thrive in almost all conditions. However a mulch of bark or leaves will keep the plant happy; it will provide nutrients and lock in much-needed moisture for the roots. After the plant has started to flower the leaves will stop growing. It’s important therefore, to remove any flowers that appear to keep the plant producing leaves right up until autumn. Pest and Diseases Mint can be affected by rust. This can be a deadly disease for mint plants. If you notice orange blobs on the underside of your mint leaves remove the leaves immediately. However, if many leaves are affected it’s best to chop the plant down to ground level and burn it. Fresh leaves should grow without infection the following spring. Alternatively, remove the entire plant and start again (if you grew your pot in a container then remove the soil and clean the pot with a disinfectant before replanting).

Harvesting Mint

Simply cut the leaves when needed, using a pair of scissors. Cut from the top of the plant (this will encourage new stems to shoot out from the sides). Never remove all of the leaves from the plant; this will hamper its growth.

Growing Mint in Containers

Mint is particularly suited to container growing, and will grow happily in potting compost. Water the plant if the pot dries out and feed with an organic liquid plant food once a month during the growing season.

Mint is a delightful herb to grow in the garden and has many uses in the kitchen. It is easy to grow and returns every year to provide you with fresh leaves to add to new potatoes, fresh peas, and turn into a delicious mint sauce.

CUCUMBER COOL

 How to Start Cucumbers From Seeds

Cucumbers are one of the most popular home garden plants,with many 

varieties suitable for home growing. Full-size varieties of cucumber require a

considerable amount of space to spread if their vinesare unsupported.Many 

gardeners choose to support their cucumbers in cages like tomatoes or plant 

high-yielding dwarf varieties to cut down on space. Whichever variety of cucumber

 you choose, you will find it easy to plant. Simply sow the seeds in the ground in 

early spring once the soil has warmed.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

April 10/13 Senga's Vlog - How to Start Cucumber Plants by sengalindsay

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Hand tiller
• Aged compost
• 5-10-10 fertilizer
• Rake
• Water

1. 
   
   1Loosen and turn the soil in the cucumber planting bed to a depth of 6 inches with a hand tiller or shovel. Remove any plants and roots or other debris that you upturn.
2. 2Spread 2 inches of aged compost followed by 2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of planting area.
3. 3Mix the amendments evenly into the top 6 inches of the soil with your hand tiller. Rake the soil smooth.
4. 4Plant each cucumber seed 1 inch deep. Plant neighboring seeds 1 foot apart. Space rows 2 to 4 feet, although dwarf and supported cucumber plants require less row space.
5. 5Water the soil with a sprinkler or gentle spray from the hose until the top 3 to 4 inches of soil are quite moist, but without puddles. Check the soil moisture daily and water as needed to keep the soil moist to this depth.

Tips & Warnings

• Cucumbers cannot be planted outdoors until temperatures and soil warm to around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. You may extend the season, however, by starting your cucumber seeds indoors. Plant two to three seeds in a peat pot filled with seed-starting soil three or four weeks before temperatures warm enough for outdoor planting. Keep the soil moist with regular watering. Once the seedlings reach 2 to 3 inches in height, cut off the two weaker plants at the soil line. When temperatures warm, plant each peat pot in the soil, 1 to 2 feet apart.